My friends and I swiftly jog across whangamata rocky terrain while glancing at the
marvelous waves. On the shore. Now I get a good look at the waves bombarding the ocean surface. I start sprinting through the shallow water.
In deeper water my hips and under are sermage in the chilly water. I use all my momentum to swing onto my surfboard and land in a surfing position. I spot my wave and I go for it, in the moment not having a clue in the world what going on as I glide smoothly through the waves. 
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